From ’’fashion dolls’’ and ’’live mannequins’’ to supermodels of the ’90s and the Insta-famous It girls of today, we are taking a look back at the very beginning of fashion modeling.
From the 16th-19th Century
1. From the sixteenth to the nineteenth century, before human models appeared, these miniature ’’fashion dolls’’ were used to advertise clothes.
2. The First Modern Model / Modeling was established as a profession in the mid-1800s by British designer Charles Frederick Worth.
3. At that time, ’’mannequins” were used to advertise clothes, but later on, they were replaced with human models, called ’’live mannequins.’
In the mid 1800s, Charles Frederick Worth, the world’s first couturier, also became the first designer to use live models instead of mannequins to market his clothing.
1920s:
By the 1920s, the word ’’model’’ became more widespread, as department stores across Europe and the US regularly staged fashion parades with live models.
Then, in New York City in 1923, John Powers opened the very first modeling agency.
1920s: And the First Modeling Schools, Too
Here, we see women at a “modeling school” in Berlin in 1928. (They’re practicing their posture by standing one-footed with books on their heads. Tyra and J. Alexander would be so proud.
The 1940s
Lisa Fonssagrives
Big names in fashion modeling started to emerge in the ’40s. Lisa Fonssagrives, whose career took off in the ’40s, was a Swedish fashion model widely credited as the first supermodel.
The New York Times wrote about Fonssagrives: “In the late 1940’s, when most models were paid $10 to $25 an hour, she was earning $40 an hour.”
Dorian Leigh
Model Dorian Leigh was also one of the most popular models of the time, appearing in more than 6 Vogue covers
1950s
Fiona Campbell-Walter
Fiona Campbell-Walter, one of photographer Cecil Beaton’s favorite models, struts her stuff during a run-through for a fashion show
Bettina Graziani
The supermodel Bettina Graziani also known simply as just Bettina worked with influential designers including Christian Dior and Hubert de Givenchy. Her small waist helped define the ‘New Look’ fashions of Dior.
Bettina reportedly commanded $1,300 an hour or over $11,000 in today’s value.
Suzy Parker
During the ’50s, modeling became a lucrative career for beautiful women from all over the world. By taking part in fashion shows and signing contracts with big cosmetic companies, model Suzy Parker became one of the most prominent models of the decade.
1960s
Jean Shrimpton
Jean Shrimpton‘s various magazine covers in the 1960s established her as one of the first ever supermodels. She has appeared on several Vogue covers and was one of the most in-demand models of her time.
Twiggy lawson & Beyond
The ’60s were also all about legendary fashion icon Twiggy Lawson. Twiggy’s immense popularity and her famously thin figure marked a shift away from curvy models to a more slender physique.
She became ’’The Face’’ of ’66 and the first international supermodel when she was only 16.
her stick thin frame, wide eyes and pixie haircut became forever associated with the mod movement.
1966: Black Models Start Becoming More Visible
Donyale Luna
Donyale Luna was the world’s first black supermodel. Time dubbed 1966 “The Luna Year,” while the New York Times called Luna “a stunning Negro model whose face had the hauteur and feline grace of Nefertiti.”
A pioneer of the industry, Naomi Sims became the first black woman to cover Ladies Home Journal in November 1968. as well as Life Magazine.
1969: Models as Designers
Model collab犀利士 orations with beauty and fashion brands are commonplace nowadays, but back in the 1960s, models were usually just models.
Not Twiggy though: She was one of the first models to turn her modeling fame into a separate business, launching a ‘Twiggy Tights’ collection for which she designed many of the tights herself.
1970s
Lauren Hutton
The 1970s ushered in new models. Lauren Hutton with her unique gap-tooth look made her the only model or celebrity to appear on American Vogue a record 26 times.
Mid 1970s: ‘Vogue’ and ELLE Feature First Black Cover Star
In 1974, Beverly Johnson became the first black model to cover American Vogue. And in 1975, she graced the over of French ELLE, too.
Johnson then went on to appear in 500 magazines throughout her career and walk the runway for such renowned designers as Yves Saint Laurent and Ralph Lauren.
Johnson’s Vogue cover was a major milestone for inclusivity in the industry and paved the way for many women of color in the modeling business.
1975: Margaux Hemingway Signs First $1 Million Contract
Modeling started to mean big money in 1975 when Margaux Hemingway, granddaughter of Ernest Hemingway, signed the first $1 million contract with Fabergé as the face of Babe perfume.
The late 1970s
Cheryl Tiegs
Cheryl Tiegs was the first model to ever land a second Sports Illustrated cover.
In 1979, she signed a reported $1.5 million 2-year contract with CoverGirl, in what was the biggest modeling contract at the time
Christie Brinkley
All-American beauty Christie Brinkley became the face of her decade for her bouncy blonde hair and brilliant smile.
She not only appeared on three consecutive Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue covers from 1979 through 1981, but she only served as the face of CoverGirl for 25 years—the longest cosmetics contract in model history
Iman
Iman was discovered in 1975 by Peter Beard, who spotted the Somalian beauty on the street in Nairobi where she was studying political science at university. She moved to the U.S. and received her first gig with American Vogue.
She quickly rose to supermodel status and became a favorite of many designers and photographers in the industry. Yves Saint Laurent once described her as his “dream woman.
1980s: Beginning of the Modern Supermodel
The 1980s saw the rise of the modern supermodel. Now, these women were not just recognizable, but they also endorsed products outside of fashion including Pepsi, Ford Trucks and more.
Early 1980s
Cindy Crawford
Along with her countless magazine covers, Crawford is known for her girl next door look and her signature beauty spot right above her lip.
Ines de la Fressange
In 1983, Ines de la Fressange became the first “exclusive” model for haute couture house Chanel.
Brooke Shields
Brooke Shields became one of the most popular models of the ’80s after appearing in a popular campaign for Calvin Klein jeans.
Shields was also an established actress thanks to roles in “Blue Lagoon” and “Pretty Baby.”
Mid 1980s
Elle Macpherson
Elle Macpherson, aptly nicknamed “The Body,” featured in every issue of American ELLE for six years in a row.
In 1994, she formed her own company Elle Macpherson Inc. and later went on to start her own lingerie line
Late 1980s
Paulina Porizkova
In 1988, Paulina Porizkova secured what was then the highest-paying modeling deal ever: a $6,000,000 contract with Estée Lauder. She remained the company’s face until 1995.
Naomi Campbell
In the Late 1980s, Naomi Campbell rose to fame as a teenager, landing the cover of British ELLE just before her 16th birthday.
She quickly became one of the most in-demand models of her time due to her stunning features and iconic walk.
By the late 1980s, Campbell, along with Christy Turlington and Linda Evangelista became known as the “Trinity.”
In 1988, she became the first black model to be featured on the cover of French Vogue with the support of her industry friend and mentor, Yves Saint Laurent.
Linda Evangelista
Linda Evangelista also became a prominent modeling figure in the ’80s. She was often referredas “the chameleon” of the modeling industry due to her ever-evolving hairstyles and beauty looks.
Linda Evangelista had her hair cut short in 1988. The haircut, nicknamed “The Linda,” not only sparked many copies worldwide, but it also benefited Evangelista’s career and helped usher in the era of the supermodel.
The 90s : Peak Supermodel Era
What followed was the ’90s, The Golden Age Of Supermodels. More than ever before, models were becoming successful businesswomen, producing their own posters, calendars, and perfumes.
Models were seen as new celebrities and were frequently featured in the media and even in music videos.
The 1990s were the heyday of the supermodel, British Vogue named Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista, and Tatjana Patitz the supermodels of their day.
The girls were known for their personality as well as their personal lives including relationships with rock stars and actors. Evangelista even famously said that she did not get out of bed for less than $10,000 a day.
Tyra Banks
Tyra Banks was a huge name in the ’90s after becoming the first African-American woman to grace the cover of GQ and Sports Illustrated.
In her first runway season, she was booked in 25 shows at the 1991 Paris Fashion Week.
She’s still one of the most prominent figures in fashion thanks to her tenure as a Victoria’s Secret Angel and her hugely popular TV show, “America’s Next Top Model.”
She was also one of the first models to make the crossover into acting. In 1993, she appeared in seven episodes of The Fresh Prince of Bel Air.
Christy Turlington
Christy Turlington was so famous in the ’90s that she was named the “Face of the 20th Century” by the Metropolitan Museum of Art. She was the face of brands such as Chanel, Marc Jacobs, and Maybelline.
In 1991, Christy Turlington signed a contract with Maybelline that paid her $800,000 for just TWELVE DAYS of work each year.
Niki Taylor
In the ’90s, girl-next-door good looks were all the rage. Think Cindy Crawford or Niki Taylor, pictured here in the cover of ELLE’s March 1991 issue.
Claudia Schiffer
Claudia Schiffer rose to fame in the early ’90s. Her first big break came when she starred in campaigns for Guess. She then appeared on the cover of Vogue and became the face of Chanel, which helped catapult her into a modeling icon.
The mid-’90s saw a new trend: The Waif Look.
The mid-90s also saw the rise of Kate Moss and the heroin chic look. Moss gained notoriety in the 1990s, becoming one of the most famous names in the fashion world.
Kate Moss got her start with Calvin Klein. Her Calvin Klein campaign with Mark Wahlberg made her an instant household name. Her popularity sparked a move toward a skinnier look in the industry.
The late 90s
Alek Wek
In the late 90s, Alek Wek, a model from the South Sudan, became an icon for black women with darker skin.
Sophie Dahl
Sophie Dahl was one of the earliest cases of a fuller-figured model being able to cross over into high fashion jobs. In 1999, she showcased her curvy frame in the Pirelli calendar.
Gisele Bündchen
Gisele Bündchen first appeared on the scene in the late ’90s and has remained one of the highest-paid models in the world.
the 2000s
Although the exposure of the supermodel faded, there was still new supermodels who emerged in the 2000s.
Thanks to Victoria’s Secret and its lucrative Angel contract, Gisele Bundchen, Tyra Banks and Heidi Klum became household names.
Unlike previous decades, many of the models turned their careers into business opportunities. Klum became known for her hosting job on ‘Project Runway’, while Banks launched ‘America’s Next Top Model’, and Bundchen’s line of sandals and apparel company in Brazil has helped her rank number 1 on Forbes’ Highest Paid Models list for many years.
Trailblazing the path for Asian models, Ling Tan has worked with top designers such as Tom Ford, Yves Saint Laurent, and Elie Saab. she was also photographed by famed photographer Richard Avedon for the 1997 Pirelli calendar.
Mid 2000s: The Wide-Eyed Dolls
Gemma Ward
Gemma Ward ushered in a new wave of models with her unique babydoll features. A year later, she became the youngest model to appear on the cover of American Vogue, at just 16 years old.
Lily Cole
With her distinctive red hair and porcelain doll complexion, Lily Cole attracted significant attention. In 2004, she was named “Model of the Year” at the British Fashion Awards.
Miranda Kerr
Aussie beauty Miranda Kerr—the first Australian Victoria’s Secret model—is an excellent example of someone who was able to make the crossover from lingerie to high fashion
Late 2000s: The Brazilian Babes
Brazilian-born Adriana Lima has become one of the most famous Victoria’s Secret Angels since joining in 2000. She was also the highest earning angel.
Lima made an emotional final walk down the Victoria’s Secret runway in November 2018.
Karlie Kloss may now be known as a member of Taylor Swift’s girl squad, but she got her start as a wildly successful model in the 2000s.
Karlie Kloss is still an in-demand model. She has graced the cover of Vogue several times since starting her career in 2007, and has modeled for brands such as Dior, Donna Karan, and Nike.
She’s also one of the most famous Victoria’s Secret Angels and made her return to the show in 2017 after a brief hiatus.
the 2010s
The 2010s marked a turning point in the fashion industry when variety was more welcomed than ever.
2012:
Kate Upton was discovered on the Jumbotron during a sports game, when she was dancing and jiggling her now-famous curves.
She landed back-to-back covers of Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue in 2012 and 2013, but she was also featured on the cover of Vogue’s June 2013 issue, representing high fashion’s renewed interest in curvier, fuller figures.
2013: The Crossover Artist
Emily Ratajkowski popped up on the scene when she pranced around in her underwear for Robin Thicke’s infamous “Blurred Lines” video. Since then, she’s successfully made the transition from music video babe to runway model and Hollywood actress
2014
Jourdan Dunn
English model Jourdan Dunn was declared an icon by models.com in 2014. That same year, she also placed on Forbes list of top-earning models. She is considered to be one of the few supermodels of this generation.
Kendall Jenner
LOVE editor Katie Grand deemed Kendall Jenner the “‘It girl’ of the season” in 2014, she walked for Chanel, landed both a high fashion (Givenchy) and major beauty (Estée Lauder) contract, and the rest is history
2014: Blogger Takeover
There’s been a staggering uptick in the popularity and influence of independent fashion bloggers in recent years.
These savvy women parlay their Internet following into major money, through brand partnerships, collaborations, and social media sponsorships.
At the forefront of the blogger crowd is Chiara Ferragni, the Italian blogger behind The Blonde Salad, who boasts 6.6 million Instagram followers, has her own shoe line, and has starred on the cover of Grazia and Vogue España.
Ferragni raked in a whopping $8 million in 2014. she’s proven so successful that Harvard Business School designed a case study about her.
2015: Sister Act
Sisters are having a moment in fashion, as Olivier Rousteing highlighted in Balmain’s fall 2015 ad campaign, which featured chic siblings Kendall and Kylie Jenner, Gigi and Bella Hadid, and Joan and Erika Smalls
We’re happy to see that modeling has become more inclusive, allowing women of different shapes and sizes to join the show and achieve success.
And over the past decade, more and more plus-size models have started joining the show.
2016
Ashley Graham made history as the first plus-size model to appear on the cover of the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue
Graham’s cover on the 2016 Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue solidified her status as one of the most influential models of the moment. She’s graced the cover of Vogue, launched a lingerie line with Addition Elle, and is the new face of Revlon.
Her popularity also led to more plus-size representation in mainstream modeling.
2016
Canadian model Winnie Harlow, who is affected with the skin condition vitiligo, received a valuable endorsement when she featured prominently in Beyoncé’s Lemonade visual album.
The model got her start on “America’s Next Top Model” and has gone on to become one of the most famous contestants from the show.
She also made her Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show debut in 2018.
2010 to Present Day: The Rise of the Social Supermodel
Unlike previous decades, 2010 and on has saw the rise of models through an unlikely place—social media.
In a 2015 issue of Adweek, a modeling agent revealed that most top brands will not consider a model unless they have a large Instagram following (usually 500,000 and up).
This has paved the way for models like Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Cara Delevingne and Karlie Kloss to “have more a voice” versus models of previous decades.
2013
Cara Delevingne
Cara Delevingne has built a large following on instagram with those iconic bold brows, and by making not pretty faces.
Joan Smalls
Joan Smalls is currently one of the highest-paid models in the world. She walked in the Victoria’s Secret Show from 2011 to 2016.
The former Victoria’s Secret model made history in 2011 when she became the first Latina model to represent Estee Lauder’s global marketing campaigns. She was the eighth highest-paid model of 2018 according to Forbes.
2016: The Instagirls
With social media followings across Instagram, Twitter, and Snapchat far exceeding 100 million, models like Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner have garnered fans beyond the fashion world, making them not just models, but mainstream celebrities.
Kendall Jenner
Kendall Jenner’s overwhelming success has marked a shift away from the traditional supermodel. She has walked several times in the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, and even landed a coveted spot on the cover of Vogue’s September Issue in 2016.
She was the highest-paid model of 2018, earning a whopping $22.5 million. Much of this income is due to her Instagram presence, which also made her one of the highest earning stars on the app.
Gigi Hadid
Gigi Hadid has also worked her way into the upper ranks of the modeling world after building a huge social-media following.
Hadid got her start at an early age by modeling with Guess at the age of 2. She stopped to focus her attention on school before returning to the industry as a teenager, walking for brands such as Marc Jacobs, Chanel, and Victoria’s Secret.
Bella Hadid
Gigi’s sister Bella Hadid is also making quite a name for herself in the modeling world. She made her New York Fashion Week debut in 2014 and has since gone on to walk for brands such as Chanel, Givenchy, and Victoria’s Secret.
Hadid has also appeared on the cover of several magazines, including the March 2018 issue of Vogue.
Anok Yai
Anok Yai is currently a rising star in the industry. She gained popularity when her photos went viral on Instagram in 2017. Yai has since modeled for brands like Alexander Wang and Prada.
Kelsey Merritt
Kelsey Merritt made history when she became the first Filipino woman to walk in the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show in 2018. She called getting into the show a “dream come true” when announcing the news on Instagram.
Chrissy Teigen
Chrissy Teigen got her big break by posing for the cover of the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue in 2010, and later married singer John Legend in 2013.
She has since amassed millions of Instagram followers, released two cookbooks, was the third highest-paid model of 2018 according to Forbes, and becoming one of the most popular personalities in the world